Pitti 101: Latimmier live in a Pucci family palazzo
Finally, a proper actual live runway show of re-defined masculine menswear in Pitti, staged late Wednesday inside a Pucci family Palazzo in Florence, courtesy of gender-bender designer Ervin Latimer.
“Treat that suit with respect bitch,” insisted Ervin as he MCed the show, and one tiny black-haired Vogueing model spun around the terrazzo floor of the 17th palazzo.
One of just nine passages in a collection that featured deconstructed menswear worn by boys and gals in a natty Nordic take on tailoring.
While Ervin marched around – microphone in hand – in a fire engine red hyper fringed leotard, matching tights, high heels, head finished with a gigantic blonde wig.
His cast mainly assembled from ballroom club culture in Helsinki, where Ervin is based.
In effect, the show and collection spoke volumes about how the new generation are breaking down ancient barriers and injecting contemporary concepts on what is unisex, transgender or cross dressing.
Latimer’s suits are often not two piece but sometimes five piece - with chopped off gilets, miniskirts and tank tops added to the mix. While his sense of silhouette ain’t half bad either. Ervin cuts great elephantine trousers, while his loon pants with slashes impressed too.
“Own it baby. And carry your own shit baby. You ain’t got nothing on this bitch y’all,” continued Ervin in his after-hours tranny club patter, cheers on by a crowd of about 150 guests – all wearing masks - at one of two shows.
A graduate from Aalto University, Helsinki, Latimer has had a thoroughly respectable career in fashion working for brands like 1017 Alyx 9SM and Heliot Emil, before launching his own label. Besides being a designer, Latimer writes and lectures on the intersections of queer-culture, anti-racism, masculinity and fashion.
Wednesday night’s show also represents the launch of his luxury label at Pitti Uomo, the 101 edition of Florentine menswear fair.
“The definition of masculinity is narrow. Our new collection is not unisex, nor defined as ‘menswear’, but rather aimed for anyone who wants to highlight or examine masculinity within themselves,” said Latimer.
“Fashion should liberate us, not limit us. We challenge both who can perform masculinity and what kind of clothing can be used to do that. Furthermore, we also expand what Nordic fashion looks like. Our collection features suits and shirts, but also dresses and skirts. Most people when they think of Finland see tall lanky blondes, but we are a lot more diverse culture than that!” Ervin told FashionNetwork.com.
Though named after the designer’s surname, Latimmier also means in an Old French 'interpreter or translator', which also sums up this designer’s role in Scandi fashion.
Moreover, after a low-key Pitti, where most every life event was cancelled due to sanitary concerns it was refreshing to witness a brand and cast that clearly loved their Warholian moment of fame in Tuscany.
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