Palomo Spain revamps business attire
"Tiburón" (shark) is how Spanish designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo decided to name the fourteenth collection of his global brand, Palomo Spain. The Spring/Summer 2022 collection saw the couturier reinvent the “businessman and preppy” wardrobe through a flawless parade held on Friday, April 1, at Espacio Loom in Madrid.
In order to draw a parallel between “the sobriety of a businessman’s lifestyle with an aesthetically rigid structure and the disinhibition they flaunt eccentrically driven by their desire for greatness,” Palomo attempted to dive into the world of executives. This new creative incursion was inspired by cinematic and literary classics such as 'Dress for Success', 'American Psycho', and even 'The Wolf of Wall Street'.
In Madrid’s financial district (Paseo de la Castellana), lined by the city’s most prestigious business offices, Palomo Spain contemporized the sleek lines and tailored silhouettes of the corporate employee’s attire. Psychedelic prints, a clear nod to the altered realities caused by consuming narcotics, juxtaposed the modest and tailored pieces against the city skyline with skyscrapers at sunset as a backdrop.
The garments taking inspiration from the financial world ranged from polo shirts to classic trench coats, as well as knit sweaters that represented the Spanish label’s first foray into knitwear. All the pieces were reinterpreted with the irreverent and satirical spirit that characterizes Palomo’s designs, in pique or dyed fabrics and a gradient color palette. The office uniform was revamped through shirting fabrics featuring faded pinstripes or loud prints created in the designer’s own atelier.
The collection took a bourgeois turn in the form of mink and sable coats, additionally conceived in a light marabou feather version. Sportswear also made an appearance through tracksuits, polo shirts, and athletic jumpsuits suitable for the gym or even the sauna. Meanwhile, a series of customized Levi’s denim garments comprised the more informal assortment.
"My goal was to liberate men from the conventional corset," said the designer, who was among the semi-finalists of the LVMH 2022 Award, in an interview with the EFE agency, explaining that "men now play a leading role; there are guys whose style attracts more attention than women."
As for what he hopes to accomplish in the future, Palomo commented that "the brand is a functioning reality " and that he has "super big projects" yet to be unveiled. It remains to be seen whether his plans also include a return to the Parisian catwalks that have already seen him triumph on several occasions.
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