Haute couture: Alexis Mabille embodies desire, Celia Kriathoroti creates an explosion of color
On January 25, the house of Chanel opened the second day of Haute Couture Week with the stunning Carlota Casarighi’s spectacular entrance. Chanel passed on the baton that very day to French couturier, Alexis Mabille, as he presented an intimate show at the Salle Pleyel, a historic live music venue located in rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
The art-deco architecture of the space served as a backdrop to the designer’s Spring/Summer 2022 haute couture collection centered around the theme of desire. “Desire for beauty and charisma. Thirst for sensuality and sparkle. Desire for carnal couture. On the skin, lingerie, dresses, suits, and shirts with a twist,” revealed Mabille as he spoke about his inspiration for the collection.
The passionate creative vision inspired the 25 looks featured in shades of nude, champagne, black, and white. The remarkable looks included shirting shapes, relaxed silhouettes, bare shoulders, halter necks, and pleated organza and poplin. The French house's signature corsetry was seen in the form of a pearl-embroidered Lyon lace bustier, a satin corset bodysuit, and Chantilly lace corsets on elegant chemise dresses.
The final look, a large bow cape in black and beige worn over a tulle jumpsuit, made for an unforgettable grand finale. Accessories such as Chantilly lace and satin hoods and jeweled belts cinching the models’ waists adorned the looks. A suggestive skin-tight lace jumpsuit also served as one of the most memorable looks from Mabille's collection.
The somber color palette of Alexis Mabille was contrasted that same day by the colorful explosion of Greek designer Celia Kritharioti, who presented her collection entitled “City of Lights” in the Palais de Tokyo that evening. Kritharioti, owner of the Greek fashion house founded in 1906 in Athens, showcased over 60 red-carpet-ready looks. The Athenian designer has in fact already dressed celebrities such as Natalia Vodianova, Imán, and Naomi Campbell.
“This collection celebrates colors and craftsmanship as well as paying homage to life,” explained Kritharioti. “The most optimistic statement for the fashion industry is to be present,” she emphasized, adding that “more colorful days are to come.” This optimistic philosophy permeated each and every one of the collection's looks. The first part of the show focused on miniskirts, short dresses and crop tops while the second part gave way to breathtaking, voluptuous long dresses in fluorescent shades that gradated to bright, glow-in-the-dark neon silhouettes.
Intricate haute couture details are seen in the high collars adorned with ostrich feathers, tulle skirts, large white capes, sensual side slits, and in the transparent fabrics embroidered to resemble blooming spring flowers. The Greek brand also dared to incorporate the current low-rise trend into a gala look; A fuchsia, tight-fitted bustier paired with a matching low-rise skirt exposing the navel, offering a fresh take on haute couture. The show's finale saw a bride wearing a white top in the shape of a bow, accompanied by three little girls as bridesmaids wearing miniature versions of the look.
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