Elsewhere in Paris: Patou and Acne Studios
Paris is all about contrasts, as Patou went for a voluminous Puss-in-Boots-meets-d’Artagnan, while Acne Studios riffed on innerwear as outerwear in the latest body con statement this season
Patou: Richelieu 'n' Roll
Already after just three years, with Guillaume Henri designing, Patou has grown rapidly and now includes 130 retail store and online shop clients.
“We are all now just going back to real life and I asked myself, what would we wear? And I decided to dress people for a party that doesn’t exist, a little crazy. So, I had in mind a little hero – Puss in Boots. And using multiple artists who use fantasy as an escape.,” explained Henri.
He went on to incorporate sketches by Christian Berard who art directed Beauty and the Beast; Jean Jacques Lequeu who sketched a fantasy world known as The Island of Love; or Gustave Doré who sketched Puss in Boots.
Many 18th-century silhouettes and Cardinal Richelieu shapes but in Clongowes Wood purple, recycled faille. Indeed, some 90% of the collection’s fabrics are upcycled or recycled.
Multiple musketeers’ references with collars that dive 10 inches down the chest; cavalier cuffs and shirts that ballooned out from the body. Mixed in with pleated sports skirts, respecting Jean Patou’s origins as the first true designer to design chic active sportswear. Or boy’s bloomers worn with recycled knit cardigans, or even a sweatshirt trimmed with gros-grain ribbon.
“Have to admit, this the first time in my entire life that l have showed a sweatshirt during fashion week,” laughed Henri. In another first he shot his own video – where he defines five clients: executive lady, cool girl, influencer, woman in a hurry and couture model.
Everything finished with “royal jewelry” like beaded faux gold chains and necklaces and chunky belt buckles used in faille belts.
In a word, his most realized collection for Patou, a LVMH house that has quietly gathered real momentum.
Acne Studios: Getting in touch with your outermost innerwear
Innerwear as wild and enticing outerwear was the key message at the latest collection from Acne Studios.
After the most exposed flesh season in Milan in decades, they are also flaunting it in Paris, especially at Acne Studios, where most of the cast looked like they emerged from a boudoir.
Corsetry inverted; cut on the bias, dissected with harnesses and extended into body stockings. Lace body stockings and micro crochet bras and tops. All of it chopped up, slightly torn, stitched together with straps.
Naughty fashion but never sado-masochistic. Women in control but not a dominatrix in sight. All marching on a crushed velvet catwalk, towering but not teetering over the audience, as they marched in giant plywood platforms.
It’s a telling comment on this season, that even if barely escaping the pandemic and still very much in the midst of the Me Too movement, designers are sending out so much revealing fashion. Bodycon styles are everywhere, and the message is very much that women can be as proud and suggestive as they wish, and that does not cheapen them one iota.
Hence, this was the latest triumph by Acne Studios' designer Jonny Johansson, who has managed to turn a cool and credible Swedish brand into a must-see show in the world’s leading capital of fashion, Paris.
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